I Don’t Want My Iced Tea Plum Flavored, Thanks
It
used to be that ordering iced tea in a restaurant wasn’t a problem.
Nowadays, if you order it, it’s apt to be flavored with passion
fruit, mango or cloves.
If you balk at the flavoring, the waiter is likely to tell you, “That’s
all we have.”
On two occasions, my wife queried, “Do you have hot tea?” The answer
was in the affirmative. “Is it flavored?” No. “Do you have
ice?” Yes. Pointing out the obvious, she instructed that if the hot tea
were poured into a glass which contained ice, the result would be unflavored
iced tea.
(Perhaps this will remind you of a scene in the 1970 movie “Five Easy Pieces” in
which Jack Nicholson wanted a side order of wheat toast with his omelet and was
told that the diner didn’t have side orders of toast; he ordered a chicken
salad sandwich and told the waitress to hold the lettuce, mayonnaise, butter — and
the chicken.)
Anyway, getting unflavored ice tea does, increasingly, present a challenge. And
ordering iced coffee, other than at Starbuck’s, is a test of wills which
the waiter is destined to win.
Hot chocolate, once common on menus, is a rarity these days. Only the most intrepid
chef will undertake to improvise the concoction of this beverage if the restaurant
doesn’t stock packets of the powdered mix to which hot water is added.
Coffee, of course, contains caffeine and keeps people awake at night. For decades,
an alternative was Postum.
The company that was long known as General Foods (which has been swallowed up
by Kraft) was founded in 1896 by C.W. Post as the Postum Cereal Co. Its initial
product was a beverage made from wheat, bran and molasses called “Postum
cereal food coffee.”
I regularly drank coffee-flavored instant Postum at nights while in law school
in the late 1960s. It tasted pretty good, and didn’t interfere with sleep.
Nowadays, it’s still made, but its days are undoubtedly numbered, with “decaf” coffee
now being in vogue. Once a staple in restaurants, it just can’t be found
on menus anymore — not even diners with a 1950s theme.
Something I remember seeing grown-ups served at drug store short-order counters
in the 1950s was Bromo Seltzer, which came in powdered form in a blue bottle.
The soda jerk would shoot some of the powder into a drinking glass from a dispenser
(a metal support holding one of the bottles, upside down), add water, then pour
the fizzing beverage into another glass, then back into the original one.
This foaming brew was taken for heartburn or hangovers.
Bromo Seltzer is still on the market. Somewhere, there just might be a short-order
counter in a drug store, like the one I remember from my childhood, where you
can get a grilled cheese sandwich, Postum, or, if you are a grown-up with stomach
distress, a Bromo Seltzer.
I suspect that any such a place is many miles from here, and that if you want
a bromo, you’re just going to have to mix it yourself.
Most every drug store had a counter with stools at which food and beverages were
served. Some accented their soda fountains, others their grills.
Whatever the emphasis, there was always a malted milk machine, and it was light
green. In the early 1950s, a malt was uniformly made with vanilla ice cream and
chocolate syrup. A variety of flavors came later.
The best malts I knew of were at Tom Crumpler’s restaurants. This was before
the days of “soft ice cream,” so Crumpler had a novelty in making
malts which he billed as being so thick you had to eat them with a spoon. Indeed,
you couldn’t slurp them through a straw.
Too, soda fountains served root beer floats, chocolate phosphates and colas flavored
with one of the innumerable syrups in stock. (There will be more about soft drinks
next time.)
Returning to the saga of iced tea of today, I relate the experience of this newspaper’s
esteemed editor, David Kline. He wrote in an e-mail:
“I was in a pizza parlor the other day and ordered an iced tea, prompted
by the big silver Lipton pot which led me to believe the tea was freshly brewed.
Wrong. The container was nothing but a prop, and the tea which spewed forth was
from a fountain hidden inside. My cup was filled with that overly sweet, chemically
derived ‘tea’ that has never touched a tea leaf. Not for long, though.
I dumped it and poured a cold, refreshing Coca-Cola.”
The "55-Plus" column is written especially for those over the age of 55, by a veteran California journalist who is himself eligible for the club. Roger M. Grace has written and edited newspapers for more than four decades, and has been a lawyer for more than three.
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